The search for the perfect rock rack is a never ending one. Similarities exist ,however, between the racks carried by the typical experienced leader. Here is a couple examples of the typical rock rack for traditional climbing.
Full Long-Pitch Eastern Rock Rack
- We prefer double or twin ropes for ease of rappelling.
- Black Diamond Camalots- 2 of each size( .5,.75,1,2) 1 - #3 (or similar-sized Metolius.)
- For wide crack climbs add another # 3 and maybe a #4.
- HB Quad cams- 2 each /small yellow & orange (or similar Metolius cams),#0 Metolius
- Nuts - 1 each from smallest size to 1", double up on #1,2,3,5,7
- A couple of RP's,small B.D. steel nuts, or HB #0,#00 brass nuts(...questionable gear, experienced leaders only)
- Lowe tricams- 1 each of pink and red. (must have on some routes)
- 10 - 48" slings tripled on biners
- 4 quickdraws
- 30 carabiners
- 1 cordelets, 1 tied sling, w/2 screw locking carabiners
- ATC belay device
- This is a full rack. You shouldn't need much else. Decide what to take up a climb depending on the route and the rock. Cams place quicker and clean faster on long routes... time savers. replace some cams with hexes for weight savings.
The Fast & Light Rack
(used effectively in the Alps on 20+ pitch routes.)
- We prefer double or twin 60 meter ropes, again for ease of rappelling and running pitches together.
- Black Diamond camalots- 1 each (# .5,.75,1,2,3) or mix with similar size hexes.
- Nuts - 1 each #1-8
- Tricams - 1 pink, 1 red , can be used as nuts too.
- 20 carabiners (sling cams on some of these, one each)
- 12 48" slings, 6 tripled w/biners, 4 slung long w/ biners
- 2 cordelets, 1 long tied tape sling, w/ 2 screw locking biners
- ATC belay device & 5mm cord for backing up raps.
- ****This rack can be pared down even further but we feel this rack errs on the safe side.
- ****Drop the #3 cam and a couple biners to lighten a little more. Let experience dictate. Less than this is not prudent if the rating is near your ability level.