Climbing routes - French Alps, Chamonix, France

By Brendan L. McGuire

Alpine Routes are graded in a the traditional Alpine Grades which are an amalgam of all of the factors involved in an ascent, such as commitment, exposure, possibility of retreat, free climbing standard, length of route, etc. The grades are generally used with + and Ð subdivisions:

Classic Route::

1. Mt. Blanc( 4807m) from The Aiguille du Midi by randonee skiis/climbing over Mt. Blanc du Tacul (, Mt. Maudit and finally Mt. Blanc. The descent was accomplished by skiing down the Grand Mulet route, which is a perfect way for descent if you are very comfortable skiing on steep, sometimes bare, and crevassed terrain. Otherwise, this same route can be done completely on foot but the route time would double.

2. Praz Torrent by the Parat/Seigneur route, TD, 250m 2 hour approach, 3hr. to climb and a 1 hr. descent.

3. Pic Adolphe Rey (3535m), Salluard Route, TD, 300m 1.5 hr. approach from the Aig. Du Midi, 4-5hrs. for the climb, 2 hrs. for the return to the Midi.

4. Aig. Du Midi (3824m), South Face via the Rebuffat Route, TD, 190m A shorter, but very technical route with moves in the 5.9-5.10a range.

5. Frendo Spur on the North Face of the Aig. Du Midi (3824m), D+, 1200m of mixed climbing. One of the alltime classics in Chamonix and often underestimated due to the lower grade. Most parties bivy on the route and complete the ice headwall in the early hours of the second day to ensure the conditions will be cold and frozen!

6. Aig. De lÕM (2844m), N. N-East Ridge, D, 200m Ð great route to start off on to get the feel for the area Menegaux Route, TD, 200m (10 pitches) of great crack climbing!

6. Petite Verte (3508m), Oridnary Route and N. West face directTwo terrific routes to get some altutude and some easier mixed moves under your belt. Both routes can easily be done in a half-day, which make them good for days with questionable or short weather windows.

7. North Spur of Mt. Chardonnet (3824m), D-, 450m of snow/ice climbing Usually climbed from the Albert Premier Hut and will take approximately 2-3 hrs. for the approach, 3-4 hrs. for the route, and a 2-3 hr. return to the hut.

8. North Face of Tour Ronde (3792m), D-, 350m of pure ice climbing The best is to ski to the base of the route and leave the skiis there. Then climb the N. Face in 3-4 hrs. By moving together for the entire route and descending by the ordinary route. For the grand finally, you ski out by the 20km Valley Blanche, which is one of the longest ski runs in the world, and you get increadible views of the entire range to boot!

9. Point Lachenal (3613m), via the Contamine route, TD, 250m Great rock route.

10. Viper au Pieds in Barberine in a valley just N. of Chamonix, 200m of 5.9-5.10a

11. Ballade Au Bout Des Combes, Barberine, 200m 5.10

12. Aig. Du Pouce (2873m), Very sustained TD, 400m

13. Aig. Du Peigne (3192m)

Vaucher Route (3009m), 400m of TD crack climbing, 17 pitches Papillons Ridge (3009m), 250m of D North Face of 3rd step of Papillons Arete, D+, 300m S. West Ridge (3192m), 150m, TD+

14. Trident du Tacul (3639m), Lepiney Route, 200m of D, great rock climbing at altitude!

15. Dent du Geant (4013m), South Face, 160m of TD with moves up to 5.10d Increadible climbing at high altitude and terrific views of the range.

16. Tour Verte (2760m), Le Piege route, 200m TD+ - very strenuous.

17. Dent du Crocodile, E. Face, TD- for 520m, difficult bergschrund to cross to start the route, sustained climbing for the upper 300M. A good finish is to traverse back to the Aig. du Midi.

18. Aig. Du Moine (3412m), E. Face, TD+ for 400m, great route, good views of the Verts and Dru.

Best Regards, Brendan L. McGuire