Wimpy leader's guide to rock routes of Chamonix, France

Routes are reached by riding the Train du Montenvers or the Telepherique de l'Aiguille du Midi and hiking from there. It is possible to hike up the entire way up but let's face it, this is a guide for Alps wimps(newbys).

• Aiguille de Blatiere

• West Face. The Red Pillar. "Nabot Leon"; 5.9. 180 meters. Steep corners and crack climbing. Only four or five pitches but fantastic climbing and views. easy rappels.

• Aiguille des Petit Charmoz.

• South West Pillar, 5.8. 200 meters. some traversing.

• Aiguille de l'M

• North North west arete. 5.7. 200 meters. very nice route to an exposed summit. Great views. A great initiation. 8 pitches.

• Lower East side, Aiguille de Roc.

• Sonam. 5.8. 200 meters. Crack climbing. 6 pitches. Ascend ledges to rappel via "Ambience Eigerwand". Views of the Mer de Glace.

• Lower East side, Eperon des Ciseaux

• Eperon Est./Voie Prioreschi-Troussier . one pitch of 5.8. Excellent climbing with generally 5.6 and easier grading. 12 pitches, 400 meters. Rappel the route. After 12 pitches it is possible to continue another 200 meters to the summit of Ciseaux at 5.4/5.3. via ledges and a couloir.

• Aiguille du Plan.

• Arete Ryan. 5.6. 550 meters. Another grand classic with crack climbing throughout. Strenuous. Chimney's high on the route. Descend via Plan ridge traverse to the Midi telepherique

• Dent du Requin.

• Renaudie Direct(Central Spur). 5.6. 570 meters. Classic route, considered on of Chamonix's finest. Descend via west face. It is necessary to haul boots, axe and crampons up the climb.

• Cosmiques Arete.

• Classic mixed climb. 5.6. 200 meters. Great views. snow and ice. It's strange to finish up from ledge on a skinny ladder and over the railing of the observation deck of the telepherique in front of all the tourists.

• Le Plateau:Pointe 3159m

• Genepi Ridge. 5.8. 250 meters. descend after 8 pitches via an easy couloir to the moraine. A modern classic with excellent climbing.

An excellent rock climbing guide to the area is: "The Mont Blanc Range Topo Guide" by Michel Piola.

Also a good guide to have is published by the Alpine Club - London: Mont Blanc Massif, Volume II, selected climbs.

Chamonix tourist's office phone #: (50) 53 00 24