Beginner's Guide to Leading Ice.
This guide is for those aspiring to the sharp end on ice and some helpful hints on leading. (***I'm not telling you to lead. That's your decision and it's one not to be taken lightly. Fall once on the lead and it may be your last time. )
Starting to lead ice? Helpful hints:
- Practice leading on top-rope first or second a great many times. Practice placing screws in ice bulges on ground level while not climbing. Hang off tools with your feet on the ground and place a screw. Are you unbelievably pumped afterwards? You need to get fit or work on it before leading similar ground.
- Whatever you decide to lead and then attempt it... don't be wrong about your ability.
- A couple Screamers are good to have. (Remember:They still might not save your hide.)
- Fill your rack with the steel screws such as Grivel or Black Diamond or at least buy a couple anyway. They go in faster, start easier, and fracture less ice going in. Keep 'em sharp.
- On NEI 3 or easier, place screws at or below your hip level and off a flat foot. Hack out a flat stance if necessary. If the steep section between flat sections is 10 feet or less, put in a screw and send home the steep spot to the next flat foot stance. If the thought of this scares you or you can't do it, don't lead the climb.
- Always, always, test tool placements before moving on them.
- Use extended runners to avoid rope-drag.
Leading the vertical stuff? It helps to do any of the following:
1. Priority: RELAX!!!! You'll use less energy.
2. Place the tool you'll be hanging off of high enough to avoid a bend in your arm, as any real bend will get you more pumped. Avoid hanging on one arm for a minute or longer since after 30-60 seconds lactic acid buildup reaches a critical point. Keep your other tool in a good place to enable you to grab it for 10-20 seconds and reduce the pump on the opposite arm. Do this switch before getting pumped.
3.Try to place screws at hip level since balance is better and you can actually get body weight into placing the stick.
4.Place the screw in a hole from the last tool placement or pre-hack out a 1" deep starter hole in good ice.
5.Sharp screws!!!!
6. Pre-hack out a foothold when possible on the steepest stuff if there's not a good foot stance.
7. Just like in rock-climbing, it's good to look ahead and decide how far you're going to go before placing the next piece of pro.
8. If you don't think you've got the juice to pull the final bulge...for god's sake clip the screw if it's good. Rest up or put in a second screw and lower off both. Make this decision at the screw, not ten feet above it. You can't climb ice from a hospital bed.
9. Climb like you're soloing...meaning: HEY, FATHEAD! YOU CAN"T AFFORD TO FALL.
10. Watch out for brittle ice and tool placements near the other. Don't move off a solid placement onto one that isn't bomber.
11. Get a good high placement and hang off it as soon as you determine it's good. The less time spent in a bicep curl, lock-off position the better.
12. Get strong and climb strong! There's no substitute for power and fitness. Top out with something left in reserve. The consistent Grade 5 ice leader trains with running, pull-ups, etc. at least every other day.
13. Hang off tools with your feet on the ground and place a screw. Are you unbelievably pumped afterwards? You need to get fit or work on it before leading similar ground.
14. I didn't have more but hey, I couldn't end on 13. (Ice climbers are superstitious.heh heh)